Anacapri

Our train from Pompei to Naples is delayed and we eventually arrive in Naples around 11am. Its absolutely chaotic in the train station and we are approached by several taxi drivers before we even leave the station. They prices they quote for a short trip to the ferry port are outrageous - double or even triple the legal fare. Unfortunately Naples is in the grip of a 24-hour taxi strike so we accept a 20 euro fare to the Baverello port. The drive is anxious to drop us out of range of the taxi rank in case of reprisals, and we only just catch the 12.45 hydrofoil to Capri.

It's a rough crossing and at least half the passengers are seasick. Also, its very hot in the cabin and we both feel a little green but don't succumb to the plastic bags being offered!

Capri looms large out of the choppy sea. I'm excited at the opportunity to visit Axel Munthe's villa at Anacapri - the highest, most picturesque and less-touristy village on Capri. We've booked 5 nights at the Casa Caprile in Anacapri, and our taxi driver takes us up the steep, narrow road to the township. At times our car seems to hang on the edge of cliff with inches between us and the precipitous drop. The road is so narrow that meeting any incoming traffic causes us all to breathe in as we scrape our way past.

Once safely at the piazza, we're prepared for the descent down to our accommodation. We've read that we need to negotiate some 80 steps to reach the hotel; fortunately the steps are shallow and wide. We bump our suitcases noisily down to the hotel gate. Our villa is slightly about the main building of the hotel and has its own terrace overlooking the sea. We have a sitting room and kitchen, plus bedroom and bathroom. Our terrace is very large, more like a small garden. Unfortunately the day is cloudy and the highest point of the island is obscured.

It's a luxury to unpack in the knowledge that we have 5 nights on the island. We take a walk up to the piazza and explore the maze of lanes that lead to the little church of San Michele and the tiny shops clustered around the other two piazzas. About half of the shops are closed for the winter, but our local cafe is open and displays a good range of panini and cakes, including the sweet, ricotta-filled cannoli. We become regulars at this cafe over the next few days and the owner is friendly and makes good, hot coffee.