Here we are on the Italian Riveria. We are staying right on the beachfront at Camogli, and from our windows we see the seafront promenade, with its row of shuttered villas, the shingled beach and the domed belltower of the old church. Further along the bay the port of Genoa is clearly visible; it seems enormous at night with all the city lights glittering.
Ferries take passengers along the Ligurian coast to Portofino, and further on to the Cinque Terre, the five 'lands' of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. Unpassable for most of its history, the Cinque Terre opened up to tourism in the 1980's and is now a national park and a designated 'area of
outstanding natural beauty'.
Ferries take passengers along the Ligurian coast to Portofino, and further on to the Cinque Terre, the five 'lands' of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. Unpassable for most of its history, the Cinque Terre opened up to tourism in the 1980's and is now a national park and a designated 'area of
outstanding natural beauty'. The towns cluster along the rocky outcrops with spectacular walks between them along paved coastline paths. For 5 euros, you can walk the trails easily (5 hours) or with more difficulty by taking the higher and steeper option (12 hours).
Our first day, and from Camogli we take the ferry to San Fruttuoso, a tiny stretch of bay dominated by its 10th century monastery and final resting place of christian martyr Saint Fruttuoso. There are three 'hypotheses' as to why this bishop, who suffered his martyrdom in Tarragon, Spain is buried in a remote cove in the Capodimonte. The most popular theory is that the saint himself indicated where his remains should be laid, speaking to some of his disciples in a dream.
We explore the monastery. From the upper cloister, mullioned windows face out to a very blue sea just metres below. The lower church reveals excavations of medieval tombs and, in a lower cloister the more recent tombs of the Doria family, Genoese wealthy merchants who enlarged and improved the monastery and church in the 13th Century.
The tiny cove at San Fruttuoso is slowly filling up with sun-worshippers, some who have come via the many walking trails. Hikers unload their backpacks with relief, strip off to their bathers and take a swim. Many are walking with their dogs, and we watch one terrier rub himself along the shingle until he's throughly got rid of his itch, and then leap into the water with his owners.
Another ferry takes us further on to Portofino. We learn from an Italian guide that Portofino means "bay of dolphins" from the italian Porto Delfino. The water is azure and so clear we can see fish swimming just below the surface. The approach is truly beautiful, with the rose, ivory and sepia-coloured villas clustered around a harbour dotted with sailing boats and ocean cruisers. We stop for a picnic lunch and watch the ferries come and go from the jetty, it's busy but not frenetic and the pace of the town feels relaxed.
Our first day, and from Camogli we take the ferry to San Fruttuoso, a tiny stretch of bay dominated by its 10th century monastery and final resting place of christian martyr Saint Fruttuoso. There are three 'hypotheses' as to why this bishop, who suffered his martyrdom in Tarragon, Spain is buried in a remote cove in the Capodimonte. The most popular theory is that the saint himself indicated where his remains should be laid, speaking to some of his disciples in a dream.
We explore the monastery. From the upper cloister, mullioned windows face out to a very blue sea just metres below. The lower church reveals excavations of medieval tombs and, in a lower cloister the more recent tombs of the Doria family, Genoese wealthy merchants who enlarged and improved the monastery and church in the 13th Century.
The tiny cove at San Fruttuoso is slowly filling up with sun-worshippers, some who have come via the many walking trails. Hikers unload their backpacks with relief, strip off to their bathers and take a swim. Many are walking with their dogs, and we watch one terrier rub himself along the shingle until he's throughly got rid of his itch, and then leap into the water with his owners.
Another ferry takes us further on to Portofino. We learn from an Italian guide that Portofino means "bay of dolphins" from the italian Porto Delfino. The water is azure and so clear we can see fish swimming just below the surface. The approach is truly beautiful, with the rose, ivory and sepia-coloured villas clustered around a harbour dotted with sailing boats and ocean cruisers. We stop for a picnic lunch and watch the ferries come and go from the jetty, it's busy but not frenetic and the pace of the town feels relaxed.
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