Florence

Jim and I have been in Florence for the last two days. It's been warm, sunny and busy. I think it would be safe to visit any other major city at present and have it to yourself, because everyone is in Florence. It's heaving.

We stay at the B&B Ghiberti Guesthouse, a block from the Duomo, Baptistery and Giotto's Belltower. We're on the first floor of an old palazzo, where Ghiberti worked on his paradise doors for the Baptistery. Our room has a frescoed ceiling and looks into the courtyard of another 15th C building under restoration. We're completely soundproofed behind our glazed windows and it's rather strange to see people passing on the busy street below and hear no footfalls.

Back on the street, we walk down to the Ponte Vecchio and cross the bridge among swarms of bodies. Above the goldsmiths and silversmiths, Vasari's corridor runs from the Oltrano to the Uffizi gallery. I'm reading about the Medicis and their transformation of Florence, including the building of this corridor that would take them above the then-butchershops and fishmongers to their offices on the other side of the Arno river. Every where you look in the city, you'll see the Medici coat of arms - on buildings, on statues, on monuments. The design is even woven into our frescoed ceiling at the hotel.

We walk Florence at dusk. The piazza della Signoria is quiet, and David's statue looms up in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. Along the loggia, the Donatello is gleaming, Perseus holding Medusa's head aloft. There's a flautist playing near the Uffizi, and groups of people are sitting on the steps of the loggia listening to the music.

Today we decide to visit the San Lorenzo street market, primarily to buy some leathergoods. Stalls selling handbags, belts, jackets, silk and wool scarves, jewellery, linen and sportswear line all sides of the piazza, and snake through the surrounding streets. A little further on, the Centrale food market is a wonderland of cheeses, meats, cured products, breads, fruit and flowers. Near the church of Santa Croce, we buy some artworks that are carefully wrapped between carboard sheets for the journey home. Our good intentions of visiting the Pitti Palace are waylaid as we simply run out of time. Nonetheless, we've enjoyed a mix of sightseeing and shopping and are now back in Montepulciano, nursing our sore feet and tired bodies. Tomorrow is market day here and we're curious to visit an Italian farmer's market. We hear this market is one of the best produce markets in Tuscany.