Monday, February 9, 2009

Campidoglio, and I miss the Dalai Lama


Today has been glorious – blue skies and sunny. Temperature 16 degrees, which means a coat but no scarf, and no gloves. I dust off my sunglasses for the first time in 10 days.

Off to the Campo to buy the paper, and then I stop at Roscioli’s for some advice. I’ve got my first visitor due tomorrow and I want to celebrate her arrival with some Prosecco. I get into a great wine conversation with one of the Roscioli sons and clink out with a few bottles. I’m also very tempted to buy some amazing green pesto, and some prosciutto – everything looks good in here.

Quick stop back at the apartment, taking the stairs as usual (I’m living a few flights up and surely this climb balances out all those morning cornettos); today I’m determined to find the Fountain of the Turtles. According to my map it’s very close to my apartment and I’ve tried several times to locate it. I double check my directions, commit the Via dei Falegnami to memory and head off.

Four youths in bronze each ride dolphins, and above their heads four turtles edge their way into a giant bowl. It’s a delight; set in a tiny piazza there’s still room to lean against the surrounding stone and admire the water splashing from the upper bowl to the lower fountain. The water is absolutely clear and it feels freezing.

If I head straight on, I should reach the Capitoline Hill, the smallest of Rome’s seven hills and the seat of the Italian government. It’s an easy walk from the turtle fountain and a gentle climb up to Campidoglio, Michelangelo’s piazza. Today it’s teeming with schoolkids, sightseers and a heavy number of policemen. There’s a giant screen set up in the square, cameramen galore and lots of flag-waving. Everyone seems to be waiting for something, and I ask a policewoman what’s happening. She tells me the Dalai Lama is visiting Rome, and is due to arrive soon.

The policemen are having a ball keeping the crowds back from the barricades, but we all push forward and crane our necks at the arrival of each official vehicle. After about half an hour I head down to the Forum, hoping I might catch the Dalai’s arrival on the way back. Unfortunately he still hasn’t arrived, although more and more dignitaries are piling into the cordoned off area. I'm hoping I might catch the event on tonight's Italian news.

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