Over the Christmas break I got stuck in a whodunnit reading groove and read about a dozen Ngaio Marsh mysteries. One of my favourites - When in Rome - is indeed set in Rome, and centres on two murders in a church called San Tomasso. What is intriguing about this mythical building is that there is a 12th century church at street level, and underneath that is a 4th century church and underneath that is a 1st century Mithraic temple. Marsh writes about this with such intensity and clarity that I began to wonder if San Tomasso was a pseudonym. And it is, the church being San Clemente.
It’s a hike from the Campo area, and I head up past the Forum and the Colosseum, looking for the church on the Via di San Giovanni in Laterano. I get a bit distracted by the Forum and Colosseum and detour around the sites, taking a lot of photographs. I also get distracted by the Vespa of my dreams, a yellow PX200 – a bit battered but still beautiful. Anyway, off to San Clemente.
The 12th century church at street level is a lovely space. Of particular and stunning beauty are the mosaics in the apse; stylised fruit, flowers and animals and they glow in the soft light. There is a cloistered courtyard with a simple fountain in the middle.
There are very few people about, but most of us elect to pay our 5 euro and head down into the lower churches. Unfortunately no photography allowed, and the light is so dim that taking a surreptitious photo or two is going to be noticed.
The 4th century church has some faded but still beautiful frescoes. The space is divided into 3 long ‘rooms’ and there are fragments of marble mosaic floors and marble statuary. At the end of one of the rooms you can hear the roar of the subterranean stream. The air smells of wet earth and is slightly damp.
Down to the mithraic level. The air is now very damp and it’s chilly. We’re sixty feet below the current ground level and the light is possibly even dimmer. A smallish room, perhaps 10 by 15 feet square, houses the altar of Mithras. There’s a relief of the god himself, cloak flying in the wind, wrestling with the sacrificial bull. It feels very, very pagan below the Christian layers of the upper church. Incredible to be standing looking into a Roman house, layers beneath modern Rome.
It’s a hike from the Campo area, and I head up past the Forum and the Colosseum, looking for the church on the Via di San Giovanni in Laterano. I get a bit distracted by the Forum and Colosseum and detour around the sites, taking a lot of photographs. I also get distracted by the Vespa of my dreams, a yellow PX200 – a bit battered but still beautiful. Anyway, off to San Clemente.
The 12th century church at street level is a lovely space. Of particular and stunning beauty are the mosaics in the apse; stylised fruit, flowers and animals and they glow in the soft light. There is a cloistered courtyard with a simple fountain in the middle.
There are very few people about, but most of us elect to pay our 5 euro and head down into the lower churches. Unfortunately no photography allowed, and the light is so dim that taking a surreptitious photo or two is going to be noticed.
The 4th century church has some faded but still beautiful frescoes. The space is divided into 3 long ‘rooms’ and there are fragments of marble mosaic floors and marble statuary. At the end of one of the rooms you can hear the roar of the subterranean stream. The air smells of wet earth and is slightly damp.
Down to the mithraic level. The air is now very damp and it’s chilly. We’re sixty feet below the current ground level and the light is possibly even dimmer. A smallish room, perhaps 10 by 15 feet square, houses the altar of Mithras. There’s a relief of the god himself, cloak flying in the wind, wrestling with the sacrificial bull. It feels very, very pagan below the Christian layers of the upper church. Incredible to be standing looking into a Roman house, layers beneath modern Rome.
Hi Honey, as usual, enjoying my morning read of your yesterday's activities. I type this knowing you're sleeping which makes it all seem even more surreal! Others have commented on your prose, which is evocative and tangible, but I am impressed with your photos. I confess some are definitely 'postcard' quality. Keep exploring and writing to ensure those of us back at home remain totally envious! xxx
ReplyDeleteHi ER,
ReplyDeleteWhat a lot of sight-seeing you packed into your day and how clever of you to have identified the church of St Clemente from your reading. It must have been quite an experience descending to the third Mythric level - sort of bone-chilling in every sense! Did it seem weird to actually be present in such a ancient place?
Glad you found the Pantheon. From your description it seems that all roads truly do lead to Rome (and the Pantheon.) As always your photos complement your commentary and you'll have a great portfolio to bring back memories and hopefully think of publishing in the future.
By now I guess you're developing into a coffee conoisseur! And re the ragu, I can almost smell the wonderful aroma of the garlic - was it as tasty as it promises (I followed the link to the recipe)
Keep on enjoying and exploring. Look forward to hearing about your next experience.
Much Love
P. xxxxxx