Eating out in Rome is generally good, though I’ve found that typical Roman fare such as spaghetti carbonara and saltimbocca tends to appear on most menus. Absolutely nothing wrong with this, but seeking out more innovative food requires research, or serendipity.
On Sunday I had an idea I’d like to go to St Peter’s Square in time for the 12 noon papal blessing of the crowd. Jim and I had managed this purely by chance a few years ago and I’ve never forgotten the atmosphere; the expectant and excited crowd and the surge of clapping and cheering as the pope appears at the Vatican window.
I manage to get to the square about 5 minutes before noon, and right on schedule a standard is draped over the uppermost storey window and the pope appears. It’s a sunny but chilly day and there’s a fair crowd in attendance; teenagers, dads with kids on their shoulders, old couples rugged up against the cold. The pope’s address booms out over the square and into the surrounding streets and lasts perhaps 15 minutes or so. He speaks in a clear and slow voice and I make out some words amongst the blur of italian. Afterwards the crowd streams back down the Via di Conciliazione. Sunday is family day, and I imagine most are going to join their families for lunch.
I walk back along the Tiber and cross at the Ponte Sisto, which is pretty close to my apartment. I’ve got so comfortable living in the Campo area that I head back without thinking much about it. The de’ Fiori square is very lively at midday, with musicians busking outside the cafes and restaurants. I get a sunny table, the UK Guardian weekend edition and a glass of wine and sit enjoying the warmth. There is a standout young violinist who plays a couple of sets before moving on to the next venue a few paces down the square.
After a while I get hungry and wander off into a tiny square next to the Campo and find Ditrambo. Inside the restaurant is cosy, with rough plaster walls and beamed ceilings. The place is bustling and almost full, but I get a table near the door. The service is friendly and knowledgeable. I have a truly sublime meal; grilled polenta with baccala, and a homemade ravioli with shellfish in white wine.
On Sunday I had an idea I’d like to go to St Peter’s Square in time for the 12 noon papal blessing of the crowd. Jim and I had managed this purely by chance a few years ago and I’ve never forgotten the atmosphere; the expectant and excited crowd and the surge of clapping and cheering as the pope appears at the Vatican window.
I manage to get to the square about 5 minutes before noon, and right on schedule a standard is draped over the uppermost storey window and the pope appears. It’s a sunny but chilly day and there’s a fair crowd in attendance; teenagers, dads with kids on their shoulders, old couples rugged up against the cold. The pope’s address booms out over the square and into the surrounding streets and lasts perhaps 15 minutes or so. He speaks in a clear and slow voice and I make out some words amongst the blur of italian. Afterwards the crowd streams back down the Via di Conciliazione. Sunday is family day, and I imagine most are going to join their families for lunch.
I walk back along the Tiber and cross at the Ponte Sisto, which is pretty close to my apartment. I’ve got so comfortable living in the Campo area that I head back without thinking much about it. The de’ Fiori square is very lively at midday, with musicians busking outside the cafes and restaurants. I get a sunny table, the UK Guardian weekend edition and a glass of wine and sit enjoying the warmth. There is a standout young violinist who plays a couple of sets before moving on to the next venue a few paces down the square.
After a while I get hungry and wander off into a tiny square next to the Campo and find Ditrambo. Inside the restaurant is cosy, with rough plaster walls and beamed ceilings. The place is bustling and almost full, but I get a table near the door. The service is friendly and knowledgeable. I have a truly sublime meal; grilled polenta with baccala, and a homemade ravioli with shellfish in white wine.
Another glass of vino for me; I’m loving it. So much, in fact, that I’ve booked it again for this coming Wednesday when I have my first visitor.
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